View topic - New member and I need a little help! (don't we all, haha)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2015 8:06 pm 
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DougWalters wrote:
Cool beans!!

It's really tough to read but it looks to me like it says 113756. I've got some paint stripper on it right now so that hopefully that'll pull some of thickness from things filling the stamping in and make it a bit more legible!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:27 am 
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That looks like the number from here. WAY to go. That would make it a possible Dec. 1916 build according to Myers catalog. Would be correct with Delco, should have glove box. Now if you get the design changes from the club store you can narrow down lots of other things. This is the fun part. The design changes was put together by a few club members and to me is the most significant thing the club has done to date. it lists part changes by date and serial number. It explains when things like your speedo or horn changed from one manuf. to another. The issue is that they built cars with the old and new part for a while so it could go either way. Add to that they may have changed 12 parts at the same time and your particular car COULD have any combination of those 12 parts. I know of 4 1915's built very close to each other that are very different cars.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:53 am 
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DougWalters wrote:
That looks like the number from here. WAY to go. That would make it a possible Dec. 1916 build according to Myers catalog. Would be correct with Delco, should have glove box. Now if you get the design changes from the club store you can narrow down lots of other things. This is the fun part. The design changes was put together by a few club members and to me is the most significant thing the club has done to date. it lists part changes by date and serial number. It explains when things like your speedo or horn changed from one manuf. to another. The issue is that they built cars with the old and new part for a while so it could go either way. Add to that they may have changed 12 parts at the same time and your particular car COULD have any combination of those 12 parts. I know of 4 1915's built very close to each other that are very different cars.

Craaaaazy! Well I went ahead and ordered every reprint that looked like could be useful to me so that's all on the way already. I went back over tonight to take the paint stripper off and it made the number quite a bit more visible! All of this is super exciting because up until now I didn't know of any identifying marks anywhere on the car and since the paperwork is nonexistent on it, I didn't have any way to even apply for a replacement title until now!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 7:57 am 
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This car will tell you it's story if you listen hard enough! When you get the changes article start at the very beginning and read it carefully. Some things will be easy to understand others maybe not. But you will see that magnetos were first used, then transitioned into Delco distributors when they could have had either. The part that makes my head spin is when, as I said, 12 parts were being changed and the car could have any combination of those parts. I don't think DB ever made two cars exactly alike. There are very few things that the statement of ALL or NONE can be used for. In your club roster look for someone close to you with a car built close to yours to get pictures of. But also keep in mind in 100 years things got changed. Luckily there are many GOOD early cars that are unrestored or only cosmetically restored. I know of a few.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 10:56 pm 
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Ebay has bunch of 1918 stuff now . Saw mount for horn vac tank . good Luck .


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 11:25 pm 
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TomShultz wrote:
Ebay has bunch of 1918 stuff now . Saw mount for horn vac tank . good Luck .

I just searched ebay for everything DB I could find and must have missed it? Happen to have a link of what you searched to find it? I saw a horn mount but no mount that looks anything like a vacuum tank mount?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:50 pm 
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As far as I know the '16's had the vacuum tank on the firewall, so this bracket would not work. I'm waiting for pictures of my buddy's '16 for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:33 pm 
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DougWalters wrote:
As far as I know the '16's had the vacuum tank on the firewall, so this bracket would not work. I'm waiting for pictures of my buddy's '16 for you.

Ah! Well that makes sense then, I forgot they weren't ALL mounted to the engine! Great, well I'm definitely interested to see how hiw is mounted so that I can get started on it!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:25 pm 
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Well, I spoke too soon. My buddy says the tank was moved from firewall to engine at serial 87132. BTW, what is the wheel base? 110 or 114? SHOULD be 114.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 12:49 pm 
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DougWalters wrote:
Well, I spoke too soon. My buddy says the tank was moved from firewall to engine at serial 87132. BTW, what is the wheel base? 110 or 114? SHOULD be 114.

Ahhhh...ok, so then I do still need to find the mount to the engine, got it. And yes, the wheelbase is 114"


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 3:33 pm 
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Mike, Sorry to be so late to the party, so to speak. I spent a couple hours last nite getting caught up in your conversations with Doug. I note your chassis (Car #) indicates being built late '16 with 114" wb. I also note the engine is just a bit later from appx. '18 and as such could have the later stamped steel oil pan instead of the cast alum from the '16. The speedo would be the JM 110-C and the proper ammeter would be a Roller-Smith with wooden retainer bracket behind dash. The starter generator on your engine is mounted upside down. The fuse and id plate should be on top and it should be self grounding via the terminal close to the engine and only one wire up to the starter switch. I presume the starter/generator may also have come with the '18 engine and would be a Model G type 3566 instead of the model G type 3554 G1 from the '16. Make certain there is a ground return wire coming from the starter switch back to the transmission. The horn would be a Garford and would be fastened to the firewall via two 1/4" holes above and near the choke pull (about 5 or 6"apart). That would indicate a vacc tank bracket alone (without horn) fastened to the back left head bolts. I hope this helps. You may have surmised by now that early cars from '14 to '19 AND later cars from '25 to '28 were making changes left and right so the car chassis number is very important. Good Luck. By the way, I have details for upholstery and wiring available for you. Contact me via email.
Rodger "Dodger" Hartley info inside front of the DBC News.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 1:28 am 
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I just found this post and will have to get to a high-speed connection to view all the pics. My touring is about May '16, so I have been most interested in this. My car is early enough to have the Magneto ignition and I'm lucky enough that all the number plates came with my car--one of the few floorboards still on it had the date plate still intact!
So, Rodger mentions the roller gauge had a wooden bracket--ah ha!! So that's how it worked! My friend Lloyd did my instrument panel & it's still at his place, so I'll have to see what he did, maybe a metal bracket with rubber grommets, much as later car makers did. Rodger, can you post a pic of the wooden bracket?
Don't feel all alone with needing odd-ball parts. From the remains of speedometer in my dash, my car originally had the very scarce air-motor driven Van Sicklen Speedometer, where the cable comes out on one side of the case., and I'm supposed to also have the Adams-Bagnell horn. Until I find a good speedo I can afford (hard to find, as the face lettering was painted on the inside of the speedo glass), I'm using the usual one, like you have. The same thing is likely with the horn too! Lloyd made a new lock for the glove box lid, so I have one of the few complete ones! I tried to convince him to make a number of them while he was doing it, but nope, and his work is so excellent--it looks like original, and I think works better than the originals did!
My car is a LONG ways from going back together, but it will happen eventually! It really isn't as bad as it looks, but it's not as good as yours is right now!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 1:54 am 
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David, Welcome aboard. Does your car have the N/E model D 4 wire starter/generator or the early Model G type 3554 without field fuse?
Perhaps the reason your lock smith did not make more keys is that there were 10 different versions of that lock.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:10 am 
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Rodger,
Lloyd didn't just make me a key, he made the entire lock! I think he made 3 of them at the time. I doubt you can tell the difference, except for maybe the lack of the maker's stamp on them.
My car had been converted to the floor box starter apparently, as it has the later starter. I've been looking for the correct stuff as I have time & It's been a while since I've had time to do DB stuff, so I don't recall if I found the right starter/generator yet or not!
I should take some pictures of Lloyd's work. He's finished my entire dash, first part of the car that's finished. His DB is much farther along, but he also has other diversions to do too. Stuff just gets in the way of our fun!!
If you look carefully at the far right of the picture, you'll see the rear half of my body upside down. The previous owner also cut the body in half--I think it was on it's way to becoming a farm tractor or something else. I have a nice set of front fenders for it, also rears and quite a bit of the pieces, although I'm still short a hood.
This really is on the back burner right now, making a living and finishing the house come first, RATS!!!
David D.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 7:35 am 
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David, I'd like to see a better picture of the wire wheels attached to your car.


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