View topic - Has anybody done a clutch adjustment?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:16 pm 
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There is a clutch adjustment procedure for clutch facing wear described on p.47 of the Mechanics' Instruction Manual. Has anybody performed this adjustment?
I have a gear grind problem, and had assumed I just have a worn clutch.
But a wise friend (a model T guy) suggested, can't you first adjust to max the clutch pedal reach? So that's what inspires this question - I hadn't even thought about it.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 8:06 pm 
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I have not done that adjustment but do you use neats foot oil on your leather?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 4:11 pm 
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Jim, I have never done this adjustment. But looking at the parts book it shows a round nut, maybe 2 inches in diameter, at the throwout bearing. It puts more tension on the spring. The nut is split with a screw to clamp it tight on the thread. You have to loosen the screw. Then there are flats formed onto the nuts you can tighten with a drift and hammer. That is IF it needs adjustment. As I asked before do you use neats foot oil on the leather? It is important.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 9:02 pm 
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I am clueless - but yall know that by now. Neats foot oil on the leather - i have research to do. is the clutch plate surface leather? Gone to rookie camp.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 9:24 pm 
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Im still clueless about oiling leather clutch (?) but allow me to revise my initial question.
Because I have a gear grind problem, I'd assumed I have a weak springed clutch plate. I don't have a slipping clutch. So the tho't was, maybe the clutch could be adjusted to max the pedal reach - and that's what p.47 Mechanic's Manual seems to address.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 10:16 pm 
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Jim, I am not going to claim to be an expert. But I have read a few articles on cone clutches. The neats foot oil is to keep the leather soft and so it doesn't grab. From what I read if it slips then you use fullers earth The leather is very thin so I am not sure it should need much adjustment. Go to the Horseless Carriage club site or Skinned Knuckles and do some research. A cone that operates correctly is a very good clutch. And most experts I know say NEVER use kevlar lining. I have worked on cranes that use a cone brake. The taper makes better contact then a disc.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:51 pm 
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Jim, I may be leading you astray. For some reason I thought you were talking about an early car with a cone clutch. In looking at other posts from you you asked a few questions about a '23. Sorry, I have early cars in my head. My '24 had a problem like you describe. I took the cover off the bell housing, in front of the shifter, and made sure all the clutch plates could separate by holding the peddle in and using a screw driver to push them. Then I cleaned the linings with a can of brake clean. Made a big difference. Also make sure your transmission oil is thick enough. Modern 600 is not. I blended in a tube of grease into the thickest steam cylinder oil I could buy. I found it at a place that supplies Strasburg RR that has steam locomotives. Again, sorry for MY confusion.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:43 pm 
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<chuckle> Doug I was waiting for you to catch up! -ha Yes my '23 has single plate clutch, not a cone clutch. Agree, a cleaning would be in order. The Mechanics Manual procedure p.47 addresses what I'd hope to gain tho'. Doesn't seem very easy -sounds like a winter project.
I did use 600wt in my gearbox. I drained it first of course. Capacity 5 pints per Book O' Info.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 8:38 am 
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I may not be a good guesser at what year you have, but I do know a '23 doesn't have a single disc clutch.


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