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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 2:03 am 
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When reading the production dates chart, is the number shown the engine number or number on the frame? This would be about 1920 22 ish. I know the engine in the car is Sept 1921 but the car is title as a 1920.


Last edited by MarkGregush on Tue Jun 02, 2020 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 11:14 am 
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I found the information on the Face book page re the chart. Thank you
I have asked over there, but will ask here too. Before I get the needed books and information covering 1920/21, can someone post the wiring diagram. While I can figure some of it out, would be nice to have something to look at. The car should be able to make run and because of where I need it to be at my place it has too. I have worked on clum type switches and need to know if there is a resister in line someplace between the power and coil and if is mounted on the switch? Right now there are just two wires connected on the back of same.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 12:37 pm 
i had a similar question...wiring...come to find out...Roger Dodger Hartley said the wiring diagram in the NE booklet is wrong...i have a clum and there is not a resistor on the back...i have a 25 touring....i am trying to find out if i have to get another clum switch or can i buy a resistor and add ??? This man is a wealth of information..


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 12:55 pm 
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Many of the coils I have been around and seen from the era had an outside resistor, I don't want to hook up power and burn out the coil if it is still good. I could just add one to be on the safe side and check the voltage at the terminal cold and when warmed up to see if it's within range for a 12 volt system. Or could bypass the original coil and temporary mount a modern 12 volt coil that does have a resister built in.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 2:59 pm 
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My 24' has a Clum switch. The only resistor is for dimming the headlights and jumps between the "rear" and "head" terminals of the switch. The "rear" terminal is energized in either "dim" or "on" but the "on" terminal is only energized when in bright position. The lights dim because in that position the headlights get power from the "rear" terminal through the resistor.
My 26 parts car has the original coil and wiring. I see no sign of there ever having been a resistor for the coil.
Coils are available with or without a built in resistor. Coils with built in resistors can produce a weak spark when the voltage drops during cranking. Later on, solenoids had a terminal that bypassed the external resistor while cranking. You can accomplish the same thing with a momentary contact switch hidden under the dash.
My experience has been that running a coil without a resistor will ruin the condenser and burn the points out in a jiffy but not harm the coil. The points being really cooked is indicative of a bad condenser. Generally condensers are either good or no good. To test a condenser go from casing to wire with an analog ohm meter then reverse the leads on the ohm meter. If the condenser is good the needle will jump and fall every time the leads are reversed.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 12:04 am 
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Guys, you are getting things confused. First the official car serial number will be stamped in the frame. The engine numbers are roughly 50,000 HIGHER than the serial number. Second the reference to a resister is on the headlight switch and is fastened between the 'HEAD' terminal and the 'DIM' terminal to reduce voltage to dim the headlights. The discussion of a resister has no reference to the ignition coil. At least in the early 4 cyl cars. Yes, the headlight dimming resister is like an external attachment and easily replaced. There is NO wire attached to the 'DIM' terminal on the headlight switch only the aforementioned resister. The 'REAR' terminal is for the tail light AND the dash light. period. I hope this helps clarify these discussions!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:03 am 
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The switch terminals are rear, head, bat & coil. The resistor jumps from rear to head.
What are the best/correct bulbs for the headlights and where can they be found? Mine have 1157 bulbs, ( I think), which doesn't seem right.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:20 am 
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I found a copy of the wiring diagram in a 1920 Dykes manual on line last night. The wiring diagram shows the tail/dash going to one terminal and head lights to another. I also see that the generator cutout is in the foot switch? If that is correct will save me from looking for it in other places. When and if I get this car, I will be getting some repair manuals for it. Right now the goal is to get it running and go from there.

Re the head light bulb; The chart is hard to read but what I have observed in most head light applications is that the filament in head light bulbs is V shaped. The 1157 is straight and would work to light up the lamp but more then likely will not give the light spread needed to be usable. If the V shaped filament is correct in this application, the other thing would be the orientation of the pins and filament. The pins can place the filament horizontal or vertical. One is correct, don't know which was used in these reflectors.
The bulb chart is on page 434;
https://books.google.com/books?id=BtYbq ... am&f=false

Thank you for the info thus far and am sure I will have more questions as time goes on.


Last edited by MarkGregush on Sat Jun 06, 2020 3:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:40 pm 
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Attachment:
'24-5 Ignition lighting switch.jpg
'24-5 Ignition lighting switch.jpg [ 152.69 KiB | Viewed 20388 times ]
natbradshaw wrote:
The switch terminals are rear, head, bat & coil. The resistor jumps from rear to head.
What are the best/correct bulbs for the headlights and where can they be found? Mine have 1157 bulbs, ( I think), which doesn't seem right.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:44 pm 
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Nat, The resister for head light 'DIM' does NOT fasten to the REAR terminal. Only the tail light and dash lights fasten to that 'REAR' terminal. See the attached pic.


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'24-5 Ignition lighting switch.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:49 pm 
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Further to headlights My chart shows the #1157 is a double filament DC bulb and would have no business in the headlight of a '24-25 Dodge Brothers. That bulb was used in much later tail lights for tail and stop function. Please stop overthinking a non problem. Use whatever 12volt single contact bulb you desire with 21 or 32 candlepower and get on with it. Most of us do not drive our vintage cars at night anyway!.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 8:37 pm 
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Bit costly but 1141 should be the correct number for head lights;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-1920s- ... SwJcddGANX


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 6:10 am 
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I see now there are different switches. The two in my possession have four terminals only.
I also stumbled upon "Meyers Early Dodge" of which I was previously unaware. They offer the v shaped bulbs for $3 each.
I've always had a hard time figuring out where in Dykes to find the information I was looking for. Any clues to the format or leads to Dodge specific info and pages?
Thanks for the reply


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 9:50 am 
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Go to my June 5th post, the link is to Dykes Automobile Manual, 1920. The whole book is there, just go to the top and check the index.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 10:38 am 
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Thanks, I'll do that.
As a correction to something I said earlier, The two light switches I have are not the same. The one in my car has only Off, On and dim with four terminals and wiring as I described. the other has Off, dim, bright and park with terminals and wiring as Rodger described. My car's serial # shows up in the last few weeks of 23'. The carcass serial is July of 26'.


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