View topic - New member and I need a little help! (don't we all, haha)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 6:45 pm 
Doug,
You may think you want to see a close up of them, but believe me, you don't! They are either Ford or Chevy wheels from about 1934 (I'd go out and look at them to identify them better but it's raining cats & dogs AND the car is over at Lloyd's house about 8 miles away) that are welded (augh!) to the DB wood wheel hubs. I have the correct wood wheels for the car elsewhere. These wheels just let me roll the chassis around, if need be, and were on it when I got it.
Sorry to get you excited! Lloyd's DB will have wire wheels, he's got them all restored and ready to go & I can't think of the make right now! I will blame the memory lapse on being busy with Christmas stuff & work!! His car is about '23 (once again, I forget!) and is also a touring. Both cars were in the same backyard when we got them, mine in a little worse shape, I think. . . .
His wheels might be Buffaloes. . .


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 7:10 pm 
That answers my question, THANKS. I knew they looked out of place. Some call the real ones Buffalo other call them Houk. Actually same thing, I think, made in Buffalo, N.Y. by Houk wheel Co.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:28 am
Posts: 36
rodgerhartley wrote:
Mike, Sorry to be so late to the party, so to speak. I spent a couple hours last nite getting caught up in your conversations with Doug. I note your chassis (Car #) indicates being built late '16 with 114" wb. I also note the engine is just a bit later from appx. '18 and as such could have the later stamped steel oil pan instead of the cast alum from the '16. The speedo would be the JM 110-C and the proper ammeter would be a Roller-Smith with wooden retainer bracket behind dash. The starter generator on your engine is mounted upside down. The fuse and id plate should be on top and it should be self grounding via the terminal close to the engine and only one wire up to the starter switch. I presume the starter/generator may also have come with the '18 engine and would be a Model G type 3566 instead of the model G type 3554 G1 from the '16. Make certain there is a ground return wire coming from the starter switch back to the transmission. The horn would be a Garford and would be fastened to the firewall via two 1/4" holes above and near the choke pull (about 5 or 6"apart). That would indicate a vacc tank bracket alone (without horn) fastened to the back left head bolts. I hope this helps. You may have surmised by now that early cars from '14 to '19 AND later cars from '25 to '28 were making changes left and right so the car chassis number is very important. Good Luck. By the way, I have details for upholstery and wiring available for you. Contact me via email.
Rodger "Dodger" Hartley info inside front of the DBC News.

Absolutely no problem Dodger, I appreciate your input. I had kind of wondered if that starter/gen was on incorrectly, but unfortunately the gentleman who built the motor did so long before the car came to me, so I was unsure of its accuracy and therefore didn't want to touch what I was unsure of.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 11:57 am 
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Joined: Sun May 22, 2016 6:06 pm
Posts: 3
Mike, I am new to the DB scene and so far this site has really helped me. I don't know if you are familiar with Bob's Speedometer, but they will make your gauges look like new. Mike Denbar


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 5:04 pm 
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MikeDenbar wrote:
Mike, I am new to the DB scene and so far this site has really helped me. I don't know if you are familiar with Bob's Speedometer, but they will make your gauges look like new. Mike Denbar

Oh wow! This place looks great! I wasn't even aware of there being such a service! I'll definitely have to pull mine out and send them over to him! Thanks for the info!!! For anyone else interested, here is the website I found for him: http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/index.asp


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