View topic - Grinding gears on my 1923 Touring car

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2016 2:11 pm
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Hello club, I'm a brand new member and DB rookie. Took delivery a week ago on my running driving 1923 touring car. Am about to initiate 3 separate posts for initial issues.
First - I need tips to avoid grinding gears - My first drive wasn't so bad - but my next couple of short drives, I got worse and worse grinding gears. Help!
It might ??? be remotely relevant that I say, I decided on my later drives to skip using Low gear entirely. Not because of grinding - its just so low I decided to skip it. I started off in 2nd and only used 2nd and High.
The worst grinding was when I would stop, and try to return to 2nd. Huge cringing grind. And going to High was a grind too. I was pumping the clutch a couple times without any apparent difference.
Last I'll say I'm a rookie to double clutching too - so there it is.
Thanks mucho - Texas Jim


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 7:23 pm 
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HI Jim
I gave the wrong information the list time about double clutching, its not double clutching. Once you shift from one gear to the other you let the gears slow down before going to the next gear, I'm learning got my information from and old expert that had one he's 88.


Last edited by Berniecomtois on Sat Jan 30, 2021 11:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 9:14 am 
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I appreciate that Bernie. Would you describe your dbl clutch method?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 10:17 am 
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Hi Jim

Your in first gear you start moving when your ready to go to second clutch, clutch hold the clutch down on the second down and go to second, and the same for third clutch, clutch hold the clutch down, shift to third. Hope this help. It also sound that your clutch plate is not disengaging but thy the double clutch first


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 10:32 am 
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Again thanks. Right now the ol' girl is on stands, I'm preparing to put new tires on it. (ouch big expense)
But also I haven't recovered yet from my stuck oil pan and oil pump problem (a separate post). I still need help on correct anatomy of the oil pump impeller - anyone?
(rookie) Texas Jim


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 6:37 pm 
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Hi Jim

I just finish with my 1917 Dodge Touring Car Looks great like new and what I told you about double clutching well scratch that. I took my car out for a ride and I have the same problem, grinding gears also, not all the time but most of the time. At times I'll shift from first to second beautiful no grinding and going from second to third again beautiful, but many times I grind gears. I thing I need to practice on shifting slower or something, will work on it. Sorry for that incorrect info.
Bernie


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:55 am 
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Bernie I decided its 80% technique, and 90% seat-o-the-pants skill!

Like you mine is prob'ly a while before I get it back out. Finished new tire mounts, now I want to refinish my wood spokes (much of them have no varnish remaining)
Then deal with my weepy water pump.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2015 1:33 pm
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Location: Emerson Iowa
If you know your car well enough you only need the clutch to start out. After that if you just know how to get the right rpm to make your gears mash going up the gears and back down. A light tug on the shifter will let it fall into place. This is best learned from someone who can do an onsight demo. I learned as a very young person on the farm with tractors that had clutches going out but had to keep them going to get the crops in or out then fix them later. Had to shut them off and put them in gear to get started sometimes. Poor man has poor ways.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:32 pm 
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I'm winding back to this post - I finally got around to draining my old trans oil and drained mebbe about 1 quart. The capacity is 5 pints (2.5 qts) per Book O' Info, so hopefully that may help my grinding?!
BTW after self educating that I couldn't find 600W locally, I bought it from www.ecklers.com They sell it by the quart for 8.49.

And my diff was virtually empty. I siphoned out maybe 2 oz Yikes. Book O' Info shows 4 pint capacity. I'm nervous about overfilling the diff tho', may hold back. Any opinions there?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:43 pm 
DON'T overfill or it will come out the axles on the brakes. Fill it and watch carefully where it leaks, the seals are just felts.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:07 pm 
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On the double clutch . It is something hard to explain . But a shift requires depressing the clutch twice to move one gear . Push, move to neutral , lift , push again move to gear , lift . That mid clutch can be a half push ,just enough to break contact . This speeds the shift . When your in that part of shift , you either let rpm's drop for up ,or add rpm's for down shift . I was amazed how it smoothed my up shifting after learning last year .


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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 5:58 pm 
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Well its been 2 1/2 years since I initiated this post seeking advice about grinding gears. Today I had a forehead slap moment - and willing to share it! Some of you, go ahead and say "duh Jim, its about time".
I had initiated the habit early on, when coasting to a stop (a downshifting situation) to pull my gearshift out of high into its neutral position. Then once I stopped, I'd go to shift into gear (I rarely use 1st, almost always start out in 2nd). And far too often, it was then that I'd grind. While standing still. Dunno why, the gears would be spinning, with no affect on them from disengaged clutch, pumping clutch pedal, etc. Not 100% of the time, but often. Wincing grind.
Today on a pleasure drive, I did not coast to a stop in neutral. I stuck my clutch pedal in, but left the gearshift in high until I stopped, then in one motion shifted from High to 2nd. Without fail and every time, it downshifted with zero grind. Hallelujah. FYI
Texas Jim '23 Touring


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2020 10:03 pm 
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Is there less grinding if you try to go into first rather than second? It is not unusual to have some spinning even when the clutch is fully pressed in. Waiting should slow it down if not stop it. Starting in second gear is not recommended in the manual. I would think it would increase the grinding also. Mike in Canada


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 27, 2020 4:56 am
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Location: maine
I just took possession of my 24 touring car but have not yet received the manual I ordered so have no idea what's inside the transmission or what the correct grade and weight of oil is.
In a previous life as an auto mechanic I have more than once traced the source of grinding to having a heavier than recommended grade of oil. If the transmission calls for 30W and it's filled with 90W, that may cause or exacerbate the problem.
It's also good to know that hypoid oil, (which can be identified by it's distinctive odor), should not be used in applications that include brass, bronze or other copper alloys as the sulfur content is detrimental to those metals. When a heavy weight without sulfur content is required use lubricants such as Castrol MT, (manual transmission), grades which do not contain sulfur.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 4:22 pm 
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Unless you were a mechanic on 20's DBs forget most of what you knew until you get your manuals. The DB transmissions get VERY thick steam cylinder oil, like 900 weight. I have been told when a screwdriver stands up for a few seconds it is thick enough. I know guys that take the thickest steam cylinder oil and add a tube or two of grease to it with a paint mixer in their drill motor. Steam cylinder oil is animal based, NOT hypoid or even modern gear oil. I found it at a supplier for a steam RR. BTW, DBs are ALL negative ground until mid '22 when the horn button moved to the steering wheel, then they became positive ground.


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